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Post by radioholic on Oct 30, 2018 22:38:30 GMT 12
I am starting a thread on borer treatment and prevention in the hope that we can pool our collective knowledge. I have some questions and also a couple of tips to share.
To kill borer I have been using PERMETHRIN in turps (final concentration 2g/L) which I inject into the holes and also paint liberally all over the cabinet.
QUESTION 1: for how long will this protect against a new borer infestation?
QUESTION 2: I have been told that a coat of polyurethane (on the inside of the cabinet) will help to prevent new borer infestation. Is this true?
TIP: Buying "No Borer" from the hardware store works out expensive if you are doing a lot of cabinets. I found it worthwhile to buy a 500mL can of 500g/L permethrin from Homesafe Products Direct (online) for $93.50. One of these cans should last a lifetime.
Any thoughts?
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Post by Richard on Oct 31, 2018 11:38:16 GMT 12
Apparently Borer wont lay their eggs on Polyurethane surfaces, only on bare wood,or the existing holes, so a coat of polyurethane on the inside might help? Of course, they will still burrow out through the polyurethane coated surface. Ive tried the "No Borer" concentrate with Turps and the cabinet stinks for days. I'm now using the "ready to use No Borer" , it doesnt stink, hopefully it works just as well as the concentrate?
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Post by radioholic on Oct 31, 2018 18:40:29 GMT 12
Turps does stink, although some people (incl. myself) don't mind the smell. An alternative is methylated spirits which is more pleasant. I'm sure the ready-to-use No Borer will work, if the cost is not an issue.
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Steve
Society Members
vintageradio.co.nz
Posts: 727
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Post by Steve on Nov 4, 2018 18:06:47 GMT 12
I haven't got any recommendations on long-term repellent solutions, so I'll keep an interested eye on this thread... but all my timber cabinets go into the freezer in a sealed plastic bag for 2 weeks when I get them - this ensures anything in the cabinet is killed, regardless of the lifecycle stage. This is a process used by museums as its non-destructive, although it could be re-infested straight away of course.
Cheers
Steve
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Post by Kempy on Nov 5, 2018 5:56:38 GMT 12
Not sure if this helps but I've used straight turps on a shed timber floor that I had treated uncessfully 3-4 times previously with bomb type treatments. Treatments with bombs were short lived with borer returning within months. I literally painted turps on and it did the job in one go
Upon returning a couple of hours later there were several dead borer lying on the floor.
It stunk for a while but it's still borer free 15yrs later
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peter
Tinkerer
Retired, collector of vintage radios and test equipment for restoration and repair.
Posts: 97
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Post by peter on Oct 10, 2019 23:23:15 GMT 12
I also fill the holes after treatment - use lacquer stick and a soldering iron to melt the lacquer into the holes. You usually have to overfill then trim back with a razor blade.
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Post by elorens on Jan 9, 2020 16:31:58 GMT 12
Turps does stink, although some people (incl. myself) don't mind the smell. An alternative is methylated spirits which is more pleasant. I'm sure the ready-to-use No Borer will work, if the cost is not an issue. The No Borer concentrate can also be dissolved in water as an alternative to turps. |
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Post by Peter Walsham on Oct 12, 2020 11:13:57 GMT 12
I would like to add my 2 cents worth here too, if I may?
I used to get 'Boracure' in Ellerslie, Auckland to fumigate cabinets, but they aren't there anymore. In recent times, looking around for a long term 'fix' (as I had a radio that I use daily in my lounge that got re-infested - evidenced by the small mounds of dust on the chassis board from what looked like fresh holes above the mounds) I decided I had nothing to lose by trying one of the liquid preparations. I ended up using 'Kiwicare's' 'No Borer' concentrate, to be mixed with Turps (or Kerosene) in a ratio of 1:10. Kiwicare have recently released a version that will now also mix with water (as well as turps/kerosene). I found this works really well mixed with turps. It is a very thin liquid that seems to easily penetrate the wood. I coat both inside & outside of the cabinets, and I do a second (and sometimes even a third application). The smell is quite strong, but it does dissipate within a few days. Kiwicare suggest that the effects of treatment will last for 5 years in places subject to high levels of UV light. I did my lounge radio about 6 years ago, and ther ehas been no further sign of borer activity since then (I keep a close eye on it). Mitre10 currently sell 500ml bottles of the concentrate for $59:99, or a 5 litre container for $304:61 (making it about 1/2 as expensive as the 500ml bottles. I now use this product on all the wooden radios that come through my workshop.
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Post by Peter Walsham on Oct 12, 2020 11:19:55 GMT 12
I meant to add. Spraying (or brushing) the Kiwicare 'No Borer' mixed with water should be used with great care, as the glues used to assemble most radio cabinets (including the bonding glue used in the manufacture of the plywood) is not water resistant, and the water will cause glue joints to ;let go'. Using a turps or kerosene mix doesn't appear to cause any problems that I am aware of
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6A8G.
Society Members
Hard working kiwi soundmixer.
Posts: 69 
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Post by 6A8G. on Oct 18, 2020 10:16:40 GMT 12
I remember reading a post on Phil's Old Radios (I think) sometime last decade & his fix for borer & other unwanted livestock was to put the cabinet into a plastic rubbish bag, put in your favourite pest killer, seal tightly, shake vigorously from time to time then leave to rest overnight in a warm place. Apparently this works well on American critters - could work here?
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Post by fredlook on Oct 18, 2020 12:00:34 GMT 12
I remember reading a post on Phil's Old Radios (I think) sometime last decade & his fix for borer & other unwanted livestock was to put the cabinet into a plastic rubbish bag, put in your favourite pest killer, seal tightly, shake vigorously from time to time then leave to rest overnight in a warm place. Apparently this works well on American critters - could work here? Nah NZ critters are really tough! 
don't know if relevant but i buy "denatured alcohol" ( ie zero water content) at my local hardware store to thin epoxy resin it is a fantastic carrier for any water based product, penetrates like crazy and then evaporates completely. leaving no odor, would not be at all surprised to find it kills live critters on its own . Highly flammable ! I use it heaps.
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