Steve
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vintageradio.co.nz
Posts: 734
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Post by Steve on Feb 19, 2022 9:15:42 GMT 12
This pops up from time to time and I'd be interested to hear peoples opinions on it.  For me, its part of the overall question of why do we restore at all? There is a line in the sand that we all work up to, and that line often shifts for any given set and any given restorer / repairer. Do we use plastic coated wire or cloth-covered? Do we revert someones 6F6 octal-output-conversion on a mid-30's set and return it to the original UX-6 base and a 42? Do we use recycled spaghetti tubing or heatshrink (and if heatshrink, do we consciously turn it so the writing on it is not seen). Some sets you want to look as factory-original as possible, some sets you just want to repair. Some you're in a hurry, some you are happy to tinker away quietly for years (my Pacific 107 springs to mind). Restuffing for me is just part of the challenge - some days I love a challenge, some days I just want it to work. Sometimes I restuff because the options are limited - like the Pacemaker Petite - there isn't a lot of room so restuffing was a simple (?) solution. Sometimes because the set is significant and I want it to look original (ie a 'restoration'). And sometimes just because I enjoy the challenge. If a future restorer pulls the cap and bins it because it looks old then that's ok - it did its job in the interim. If they pull it to restuff it then they'll figure it out at some point. Either way, nothing lost but a little time. I wouldn't do it every single time (the Columbus 26P I did recently with about 437 electrolytic cans on the chassis springs to mind as an example of one I would not restuff!) - but sometimes for me its the right thing to do. So - do you restuff? Why, or why not? |
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Post by DHockey on Feb 19, 2022 20:44:56 GMT 12
I usually restuff electrolytic cans in sets where there is not enough room to put new caps under the chassis, or where significant wiring / layout changes would be required to install new caps on tag strips etc.
I like to keep radios looking as original looking as I can on the top of the chassis. I use fabric covered wires for grid leads and so on where possible. Perished rubber covered wire is replaced with plastic covered of the same colour. I tend to un-do mods like valve changes, PM speaker replacements or AC/DC conversions. Under the chassis I just like to do a tidy job with modern components and get the set to perform as best it can. I do have a set I would like to do a "keep it original looking" restoration with restuffed wax caps and re-made dogbone resistors, but I'm not ready to do it yet.
There are some radios in my collection that I have no desire to repair or restore, I just want to conserve them as they are. One is a 1932 Wellmayde Cathedral, the cabinet and chassis are pretty scruffy from age, but remarkably this radio has never had a component replaced under the chassis - it is all original, even the TCC wet electrolytics are still present and connected. The only thing that has ever been changed is the output transformer. My plan for this radio is just to replace a missing knob, install a missing 47 output valve, glue down some loose veneer and leave it as an original unrestored radio.
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6A8G.
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Hard working kiwi soundmixer.
Posts: 69 
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Post by 6A8G. on Feb 20, 2022 6:49:26 GMT 12
I re-stuff whenever I can but mostly it's because I like to see the chassis in the most original state possible. I have good stocks of cloth-covered wire & I would retro-fit a 6D6 if there was a 6U7G where it shouldn't be.
I do use heat-shrink on the tabs at the back of volume/tone controls but not on mains transformer tags.
If I'm fixing up a radio for a friend then I would just do a service job - plastic wire, re-stuffing only if there's no room for individual units. If a 6U7G was too "young" it would stay where it was.
Maybe I'm living in the past? It's a good place for a holiday... John:)
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wayne
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Post by wayne on Feb 20, 2022 10:06:50 GMT 12
Help me understand this. I assume this means removing what's in the can and fitting the new caps inside it and refitting back to the chassis. Am I missing something as I had a look at one I've done and the 40-40-20 caps won't fit inside the can  ? Thanks Wayne |
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6A8G.
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Hard working kiwi soundmixer.
Posts: 69
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Post by 6A8G. on Feb 22, 2022 20:08:40 GMT 12
You are quite right Wayne. And yes it’s sometimes only possible to fit two caps in a can which formerly held three. Still, that leaves only one to fit elsewhere on the chassis. Terry from D-Lab has detailed a procedure where three caps can be mounted on top of an octal valve socket. They are similar in size to a can cap & this works well. It also gives the advantage of extra tie points under the chassis. The only down side I think is it looks very artificial - definitely not the vintage look. I try to re-stuff when I can😃
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6A8G.
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Hard working kiwi soundmixer.
Posts: 69
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Post by 6A8G. on Mar 1, 2022 4:50:14 GMT 12
Here's Terry from D-Lab in action. Go around 5 1/2 minutes in.
John:)
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Post by Philconut on Mar 2, 2022 15:41:11 GMT 12
If the radio is mine and undergoing a full restoration, I definitely re-stuff the electros. If it's a Philco, I re-stuff all the bakelite cap blocks too. I make new/old caps to replace the old ones and I have even made replica dog bone resistors! - a thankless & time-consuming task but they certainly look good. The photo is of a Zenith model 250 where I have done all of these. - yes the components you can see are all new.
However if the radio I am repairing is for someone else, unless specifically asked, I just use new components & fit them in.
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Post by Philconut on Mar 2, 2022 15:45:06 GMT 12
I should also have said that for my own restos I definitely replace a substituted valve with the original type.
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6A8G.
Society Members
Hard working kiwi soundmixer.
Posts: 69
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Post by 6A8G. on Mar 5, 2022 9:40:24 GMT 12
For your "new" dog-bone resistors did you use hexagonal pens? I read about this some time ago but have never got round to trying it:) John.
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Post by Philconut on Mar 5, 2022 18:10:16 GMT 12
No, I hadn't considered them. I made a mould, using an old resistor, from Kneadit - the 2 part epoxy stick then with more Kneadit I fashioned it around the new resistor, tidied it up in the mould then when hard, paint. It was messy, tricky & VERY time consuming. However, the finished items look quite realistic. I haven't done it again! I might be tempted to try the pens. Expensive? probably but then the definition of a hobby is: "A bottomless money pit for which you do not have to account." 
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peter
Tinkerer
Retired, collector of vintage radios and test equipment for restoration and repair.
Posts: 97
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Post by peter on Mar 19, 2022 22:03:20 GMT 12
I never bother as I'm yusually happy enough to get it working again and properly aligned. Electronic goods all undergo repairs from time to time - or used to before the current throwaway culture - so I feel visible replacements are part of a radios history.
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